Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Two interesting things:

You can buy rice from vending machines-- like those large-sized vending machines for purified water in Canada. I haven't tried one yet-- they look intimidating.

I can't buy brown rice-- I can't find it in Tokushima. It's considered 'low class', and the bulk of it is reserved for prison inmates; it's served as a form of punishment. (At least the prisoners are likely to be regular!)
The weather is shockingly lovely. The days are long and clear and bright with cool breezes; the evenings encourage the wearing of a light sweater. The leaves are shifting to a dark, tired green, and the rice in the fields has turned a gorgeous heavy green-gold. Some of the farmers have already harvested the first crop and put in a crop of late-harvest rice, but the young green shoots have none of the electric tenderness of the spring variety. They are darker, sparser, more resolute.

We have a new staff member at the downtown Nova; her name is Jenna, and she's the dearest little elf of a Scot. Bani will be leaving at the end of October. still haven't gotten used to all the comings and goings in this company. The turnover is becoming a little wearing... it's sad to say goodbye to a steady stream of friends. How many have left since I've arrived? Shona, Ken, Brian, Ashley... am I missing anyone? I hope not.

I've been trying to get out more and re-become a tourist in this city. Since parting ways with Yoshino, I've had to become a little more ingenuitive and independent... just as well. I stopped hanging out with him because I was getting a little tired of being told that I was fat, I need to diet, etc, etc. At first I let it go, seeing as the language barrier sometimes leads to an unintentional absence of tact. Then it became apparent that he wasn't going to change-- my free English lessons weren't making an impact on his personality. Besides which, on the one time I took him to Bubu's for lunch, he very quickly alienated Bubu, Haruko and Miho, and the three of them declared him to be a very strange Japanese fellow indeed. I think I had enough strange in Canada, thank you! Besides which, I'm NOT fat. I'm just not an average size for Japan. Dieting isn't going to make me any shorter, or my size 10 feet any smaller.

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

I shouldn't leave my blogging as the last thing to do before I leave the internet cafe. The heavy cigarette smoke is giving me a headache that not even the free espresso can quell.

Feeling sluggish even as the caffeine sloshes through my veins; I guess I'm still recovering from the indulgences of my vacation. I ate-- OH, did I eat! I ate crab legs and strange orange sea creatures, I ate seaweed salads and home-made gyoza, and Mickey-shaped onigiri and sugary soda-flavoured popcorn from Tokyo Disneyland. In Sendai I ate cow's tongue and snotty-textured raw yama-imo (mountain potato). And here's the kicker-- I ate whale. Oooh, Greenpeace is gonna get me now! I didn't know it was whale when I took it. Maybe that's not an excuse. But I ate it. Hmmm. Greasy like lamb-fat, darkly manky in flavour. I can't honestly recommend it. Eating it prompted a discussion of why whale is still consumed in Japan-- force of habit, mostly. Long time ago, there were no cows in Japan (or very few to speak of, so let's just say there were none) so all the protein sources came from the sea--- why spend time and energy raising meat when you can just go grab it out of the ocean? Now of course, whales are endangered, and the world-wide consumption of beef causes global warming as 3rd world nations slash and burn forests so as to raise cattle and compete in the global economy... but let's stop there. Sustainability is an issue for another time. For now, let's just accept the fact that I ate whale, and I feel weird about it.

I flew to Tokyo last Wednesday and promptly got lost trying to find Sumiko and Kazuo. I found an information kiosk and had the embarrassing honor of having my name and my predicament announced to the hundreds of thousands of people in the Narita airport. Sumiko-- with Kazuo, her niece Yuuko, and Yuuko's two sons-- aged 5 and 3-- descended upon me, told Tomoya (age 5) to hold my hand and not lose me, and off we went. Lunch, monorail, train, train, train, train, car. Ta-da! We're in Tsukuba. From the outside, the two houses looked unchanged (Sumiko's and Kazuo's, and Kazuo's parents house-- they've both passed away since I was here in 1994) but Sumiko and Kazuo had been doing some renovating-- now both houses were connected, forming one mega-house. HUGE! Like a maze of sliding doors and dropped foyers and long hallways and secret rooms. My bedroom was to be in Sumiko's former master suite, where I slept 12 years ago at the foot of their bed on the floor. (This sounds weird, but it was because it was the only air-conditioned bedroom in the house, so they were actually being very kind). We dropped off my stuff, went out for do-it-yourself okonomiyaki and karaoke, then returned home, an exhausted wee trio, to the monster palace.

The next day started another round of car, train, train, train, train, as Sumiko, Yuuko, Tomoya and I plunged back into Tokyo to go to Disneyland. OK, so forgive me, but I'm going to say it here and now: I am finished with Disneyland. I have never liked Mickey or Minnie Mouse. And yet-- I have been to Disneyland California, Disney World Florida, and now Tokyo Disneyland-- twice. It's like some part of me belongs to Walt Disney's frozen spirit, and I can't escape. I'll admit that the first time, I felt the magic. I was able to suspend reality, be a child in a magical fairyland. But then, in university, I grew suspicious. I studied Disneyland, took it apart, researched its inner workings, its dark anomalies. And then, like the kid who takes apart her grandfather's beautiful pocketwatch to figure out how it works, I couldn't put it together again. Disneyland didn't 'tick' for me anymore. Just like after Film School, when all I could do was notice bad lighting, stilted scriptwriting, and poor sound quality. At least I still have my night-time dream-shows... I ought not ever study psychology.

Anyway, I'm off track.

Tokyo Disneyland was Disneyland, in all of it's fabricated, fascinating glory. Characters careened through the manicured boulevards-- I posed with the Mad Hatter from Alice in Wonderland, some flaming Iowa farmboy with perfect white teeth and a glued-on nose. "Let's be eighties about it and pose back-to-back!" he trilled. I grinned and said, as an aside, "sure is nice to speak real English to somebody!" He nodded enthusiastically, and breaking from his Disney-script, said "Tell me about it, sister! Tell Me About It!" So all, in all, Disneyland was fun. There was a Halloween theme-- so we watched the Halloween parade-- twice (most of the rides frightened Tomoya). I wore Minnie ears. I went on Pooh's Hunny-Hunt which was quite fun and beautiful. I also got a kick out of hearing Pooh and Tigger and Piglet talk in Japanese. When Tigger sings the bouncy Tigger song, it actually sounds quite-- well, dirty. I won't mention what I thought I heard him say! I also went on Buzz Lightyear's Space Blasters ride. I got to handle a laser-gun and shoot aliens... so that was fun too. The Raceway and The Jungle Cruise and Splash Mountain are the same as they are at every other Disneyland-- except in Japanese, of course. And-- here's where I don't remember why I was complaining in the first place-- Sumiko bought me a fast-pass for the Thunder Mountain railroad, far-and-away my favorite Disneyland ride! That was wicked. OK, I'll go back to Disneyland. When I have kids.

Train, train, train, train, car. Bed. Get up, eat breakfast-- Sumiko had lovingly sorted out the details of my trip, and left a gorgeous Japanese breakfast for me as she herself had to get off to work that day. She arranged to have her other niece Haruka, meet me that morning. car, train, train, train, train. Shinsaibashi, Harujuku, shop, look for 'Harajuku Girls' (didn't see any), eat the crepes that Harujuku is famous for (yes, crepes-- mine was strawberry-chocolate-cream-and-pound-cake flavour). Then train, train, train, back to Tokyo station to meet Ume. Then onto the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) and start off to Sendai. As we jet along in the relative peace and comfort of the speeding capsule, I felt strangely at ease. I'm going to Sendai. I'm going home, I'll see Ume's mom and dad, I'll sleep on a futon on the floor next to best Japanese girlfriend, we'll talk about stuff. Actually, we never ceased talking about stuff. The whole 2 hour train ride, then as we walked through Sendai to a Jazz cafe, and later on from there to have a reunion with 4 of the the Penticton-Summerland Japanese exchange students of 1994, neither one of us shuts up. I tell her about my students, my friends, my mishaps in the world of dating Japanese guys and she tells me about her two years in Hawaii, her current boyfriend, the antics of her over-the-top father.

It was good to see the other students again. Jun-ya, only 30, looks as though he's 45... already a father, and a heavy-drinking, heavy-smoking salary-slave. As we reminisced, I felt my heart ache for the confident, hopeful boy he'd been. As for the girls-- one's married, a brand-new shufu (housewife), the other is looking forward to her wedding. Hiro really impressed me-- never ceasing to believe that he was anything but an artist, he is now nothing but an artist. Determined and committed, 100%. The next day, Ume and her Dad and I all went out to Hiro's family house wayyyy out in the far reaches of a country town called Zao, and saw his work. It blew my mind. We're talking intense, massive watercolours stretched on boards-- ranging anywhere from 10' x 30', to his largest, 26' x 90'. Well, we said we wanted a revolution in watercolours, and Hiro's done it. I was at a complete loss for words. We all moved indoors (he paints in a converted barn/garage, like I did in Aldergrove) and had tea with his mother and father and-- I'm not sure if he/she was his grandma or grandpa. Anyway, I did Hiro's portrait, and he did mine. Ume's dad told stories that made Hiro choke on his laughter as he sketched me. He invited me to come to the art prep school he works at and I did, a day later. I had a blast, and was once again deeply impressed by his seriousness and commitment to art and his students.

The afternoon after we visited Hiro's house, Ume, and her mom and I convened at the Green Green Ryokan, set in the heart of the undeniably green, green rolling hills. The view from our room looked out on nothing but an expanse of emerald. The onsen at the hotel was simple but large and comfortable; the outdoor bath was blessed by the cool sweet air rolling down off the mountainside. I spent a whole 20 hours with Ume and her mom, lolling about in our hotel-yukatas (we even ate dinner in them), eating mochi-ume sweets and Sendai vanilla cream-cheese, watching Japanese comedies on TV and having multiple baths at the onsen. Pure bliss.

As I write this, the sun is shifting outdoors, and I feel the pounding need to get out of this internet cafe... I can only remain suspended in the comfort of my memories for so long before the second-hand nicotine becomes a renewed reality. Suffice it to say, I had a lovely time; I feel re-centered and surrounded by the warmth and love of good Japanese people on all sides. I am truly blessed to have met all of these people, and to have experienced their warmth and generosity.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

A quickish post just to affirm that all is well, and that I have safely returned from my vacation. I feel refreshed and renewed, and really, those are precisely the feelings I was looking for. Going back to work was like returning home; I got to see some of my favorite students and babble on about Sendai and and Tokyo Disneyland and Harajuko and what-have-you. I feel like a tourist again...

I've also reached some important decisions about what I'm going to do come next year, but I'll keep those under wraps for now. After all, just talking about things doesn't make them manifest; I don't want to let all the air leak out of my balloon.

As for all the thrilling details of my vacation in Eastern Japan, you'll just have to wait. I've got to get home to beat my futon and clean my apartment before my private student shows up for his lesson. Today (to my utter delight) we will be talking about Spongebob Squarepants, and possibly crafting paper Spongebobs to stick on my wall! My life is sweet.

ja, mata ne (roughly- 'later alligator')

Endrene

Monday, September 11, 2006

This Week's Highlights

Japanese Underwear!
Yes. Yes, yes, yes. I finally decided to stop assuming that I couldn't find underwear in Japan, and just go try some on. I was measured, found to be of quite an acceptable size, and then set free in the wonderland of lace and frills and ribbons, all averaging about 25 bucks Canadian for an amazingly well-made bra and panty set. A hundred dollars later, there is no dirty manga character that can rival me in my frilly cuteness. Ha! Too bad I'm the only one who gets to enjoy me.

Visiting The Boobie Palace!
Most times in life, you don't get an opportunity to go back to the places you once lived. You can wonder about them, and try to imagine how the new folks have decorated, whether or not your bedroom still looks the same, that sort of thing. I was at the Palace this morning, dropping off the key for my apartment-- Joanna and Kat are going to water my plants while I'm on vacation. I was admiring the wallpaper in the WC, and thinking about this. It's not important, but I feel like a ghost haunting an altered memory when I'm there. It's weird, but it's a good feeling.

Vacation Preparation!
Tomorrow I'm off to Tokyo, Tokyo Disney Sea ( the newest theme park), Tsukuba and Sendai. I am looking forward to it the way geeks look forward to the next Star Trek novel, the way chubby kids look forward to birthday cake, the way my buddy Sarah looks forward to the next Black-Eyed Peas album! I told my Junior kids class I was going to Dinseyland and an chorus of "IIiii, Naaaaaa!" (that's coooool!) broke out. I know I'm not supposed to give my students gifts, but I would love to get them some Disney cookies or something while I'm away.

Getting A Talking-To From My 'Japanese Parents'!
Went on a 'date' with a Japanese guy I hardly knew-- this funky little guy named Taka who lived in the US for a couple of years. His English wasn't outstanding-- in particular, he overused the phrase 'too much'-- for example, Canadian and American girls are too much beautiful, American people are too much kindness. But otherwise we communicated all right. Anyway, he took me in his mom's car to Kitajima out for dinner-- I think he mostly wanted to practice his English. The restaurant was a place he used to work at, so the staff came out to visit and chat and have their portraits done by moi on the backs of reciepts. Taka confided that his girlfriend was too much beautiful, and that the next day he was going to tell her that he loved her for the first time, and that he was "too much scared, but good luck for me!" That's when I realized we weren't really on a 'date'. Anyway, after dinner he took me right home-- on the way I checked my cell phone and saw that Bubu had sent me a message: "Are you crazy? Do you want to make same mistakes as before? Do you know what I am talking about?" I didn't really, so I hopped it to his shop as soon as Taka dropped me off-- turns out Bubu and Haruko had seen me get into Taka's car (he had been parked in front of their shop) and they were both freaked out. Bubu lectured me for 1/2 an hour on how Japan isn't safe anymore, young people are dangerous and that I ought to be 'more carefully'. I was a little taken aback at first, but I did see the point of his admonishings; I really didn't know Taka very well, and riding in his car to who-knows-where was probably not the smartest thing to have done. At least I know that there are people who really care about me here.

Indigo Dyeing!
Yesterday Bubu took me out into the nearby countryside to try my hand at natural indigo dyeing, which the prefecture is famous for. I have to bring 'omiyage,' or prefectural gifts, to the Miyamotos in Tsukuba and the Umemuras in Sendai, so indigo seemed like a good idea-- even better if I had made it myself. It's done with the wax resist method-- painting on a white handerchief with a brush loaded with hot wax. Then the handerchief is dipped repeatedly into big concrete tubs filled with indigo dye-- I got to see the plants that make indigo. The process of getting the dye is quite complex, and I'd be curious to know who figured it out! The stems and flowers have to be carefully composted indoors for a certain amount of time until the resulting matter looks like cow dung; then cooked (?) in alkaline water to get the dye. Anyway, it was really fun and rustic-- the studio had a dirt-and-concrete floor, and the Dye Master was a fluffy-haired Japanese hippy, very gentle and earthy. I'm looking forward to going again.

Anyway-- I best get home and pack... I'm on Vacation countdown!!

Namaste

Endrene

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Did you know that gekkos squeak? They do. There was one poor little baby guy next to the mailboxes inside my apartment building (or mansion, as they are euphimistically called in Japan) so I caught him and he squeak-squeak-squeaked as I carried him outside. Poor little booger. I mention this because I seem to be spending a lot more of my free time admiring and interacting with insects and animals than I do with people lately. One of my students has a pet shrimp named ebi-chan, and it sounds like a marvelously good idea.

Maybe I need to get out more.

Work has been great, although with the kids I am down to only two junior classes a week (my favorites) no senior classes (my second-favorites) and a whole load of kinder classes (my least favorites). The kinders are prone to pulling my hair out of a curious desire to know how foriengers react to pain. They also pee themselves, smash into each other while doing the hokey-pokey, cry, and pick their noses and then pet my hair. One little dude this week made it his mission to run his hand as far up my skirt as he could whenever I was trying to run crowd control on the other six kids. Wheeeee.

The weather has cooled considerably, enough that I can have the expensive air-conditioner off at night, and my deck-door open. I get to listen to the night-sounds of the bowling alley across the street and the screechy teenage boys singing as they walk home. Also-- is it my luck? Or is it a meaningful sign? I haven't lived anywhere in Japan that hasn't had construction going on nearby. There is another family 'mansion' being built right next door to my building, so I usually wake up at about 5am to the sounds of the trucks and cranes and hammers. Thankfully the noisy cicadas have decreased massively in number. However, they drop out of the sky to die on their backs... most of them die on my deck, I think. This grosses me out, as I am quite fond of live insects, but get really grossed out by dead ones. And these cicadas-- yuck! They look like giant brown houseflies. They're about 3.5 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The live ones also like to land on my laundry as it is drying on the deck and leave a big poo on my whites. They haven't endeared themselves to me at all.

I can't wait to get to Sendai. I'll fly to Tokyo on the 13th and spend two days with the Miyamotos in Tsukuba, and then go on to Sendai on the 15th with my buddy Ume. We'll stay with her parents and have a reunion with the students that came to Canada in 1994. Hard to believe it's been 12 years since I've seen these people... my Japanese 'boyfriend' (former serious penpal) has since married and had a child. Another favorite of mine, Hiro, has become a well-known artist in Japan. Ume and I are going to go to his house and see his artwork. Perhaps I can do a little networking? Then Ume and her Mom and Dad and I are going to stay at a Ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) and enjoy an onsen. Mostly I'm looking forward to the opportunity to gain a little perspective; my contract evaluation is coming up alarmingly fast and I'll have to make decisions about whether I want to spend another year in Tokushima or...? I have many options. It's just a matter of taking the time to listen to my instincts and evaluate both my common and uncommon senses.

I've been spending a lot of time at Bubu's shop-- for you readers of Archie Comics, you'll know what I mean when I say that Bubu's is quite shockingly similar to Pop Tate's Chocklit Shoppe. Bubu is Pop, Miho is Betty, Kayo is Veronica, Takashige is Reggie, Yasu is Jughead. I guess that means that I am Archie! Bubu's family has been more than generous and kind to me. This Thursday he's planned yet another barbecue at his place for me and some of my Nova friends, as well as the Chocklit Shoppe crew. I can't wait-- so far, there isn't much (in my estimation) that can beat the taste of yaki nikku. As is the custom in Japan, I'll have to be sure to get some omiyage (gifts) for my friends and co-workers when I'm in Sendai. I asked Bubu and Haruko what they wanted and they both immediately pointed to their lolled-out tongues; apparently Sendai cow-tongue is a famous delicacy. Hard to believe, but I could be shelling out as much as 5000 yen for a couple of pounds of taste buds... I have no idea what makes Sendai tongue so special, but I guess I'll be finding out soon enough!

Here are my new Japanese words for this week:

motainai- what a waste! or it's too good for (that/him)
nan demo ii - anything is ok
itsu demo ii - anytime is ok
doko demo ii - anywhere is ok
joozu ja arimasen - I am not skilled
kimochii warui - bad feeling
kimochii - good feeling